Amed guide: coral reefs, a wartime wreck and Mount Agung
Bali's slow east coast — snorkelling from the beach, diving the USAT Liberty and the Gates of Heaven at Lempuyang.
Amed is really a string of seven fishing villages on Bali’s north-east coast, from Jemeluk to Aas. The beaches are black volcanic sand, the sea is clear blue, and behind it all rises Mount Agung, Bali’s highest and holiest mountain. There are no malls or big beach clubs here — only reefs, outrigger boats and remarkable sunrises.
What to do
- Snorkel Jemeluk Bay — coral and reef fish a swim from the beach, clearest in the morning.
- Dive the USAT Liberty at Tulamben — a Second World War American cargo ship turned reef — one of the world’s best-known wreck dives, and good for snorkelling too.
- Lempuyang Temple, ‘Gates of Heaven’ — a split gateway framing Mount Agung; leave before dawn to beat the photo queue.
- Tirta Gangga Water Palace — the Karangasem royal water garden of pools and stepping stones, about 45 minutes away.
- Learn to freedive — Amed is Bali’s freediving centre, with certified schools along the beach.
What to eat
- Morning-catch grilled fish — the fishermen are back before 9 am, and many warungs grill that day’s catch.
- Sate lilit & lawar — east-Balinese cooking — spicier and more aromatic.
- Traditional Amed salt — sea salt dried on the sand the old way; a good gift to take home.
- Karangasem nasi campur — generous plates with the east coast’s fiery sambal.
Arts & culture
- Traditional Amed salt — salt farmers dry seawater on the sand and filter it the way their grandparents did — you can watch the process in the morning.
- Tenganan Pegringsingan village — a Bali Aga village about an hour from Amed, famous for geringsing double-ikat cloth, one of the rarest textiles in the world.
- Taman Ujung & Tirta Gangga — water palaces left by the Raja of Karangasem, blending Balinese and European architecture.
- Village temple ceremonies — Karangasem keeps its customs closest; with luck you will meet an odalan with gamelan and penjor poles.
Best time & tips
The sea is calmest and clearest in the dry season (April–November). ATMs are scarce, so bring enough cash. The road to Amed is winding, which makes an experienced driver the comfortable choice — and Tirta Gangga is an easy stop on the way.
Getting there
Amed is about 2.5–3 hours from Ngurah Rai Airport. Given the distance, we suggest staying at least three nights.
